Review: New Mass Ave Eatery, Hedge Row, is One of Indy's Best New Brunch Spots
I’ll try to keep this brief. Hedge Row (which I have already written about in glorious wood-fired, real-food detail) has opened its doors—and its sun-soaked patio—for Indy’s favorite meal: Brunch. The Kimbal Musk-owned bistro joins the crowded club of Mass Ave eateries currently captivating Circle City’s brunch-goers, including its nearby neighbors The Garden Table and Louie’s Wine Dive.
The Hedge Row breakfast menu reads like standard brunch fare (there are boozy cocktails, pancakes, pastries, and dishes topped with fried eggs), but what arrives on your table is far from your run-of-the-mill breakfast spread. This is drop-all-your-weekend-plans-and-go levels of good. Let’s delve into its highlights...
Christened as “Morning Sweets” at the top of the menu, the trio of sweet carb confections is worth every last calorie. The croissant is buttery and tender and impossible flaky, the bourbon pecan sticky bun is sweet without being cloying, and the maple old fashioned donut is utter deep-fried perfection.
The breakfast mains are where this brunch shines.
Hedge Row’s unconventional take on Shrimp & Grits, with grilled slices of spicy andouille sausage in a rich broth with tomatoes, onion, peppers, and garlic, is delightful. The umami-forward broth provides a nice contrast in flavor to subtle sweetness of the shrimp and the heat of the andouille. It’s all punctuated with two perfectly poached eggs.
My favorite bite, though, was the spoonbread. Tender pieces of Carolina-style pulled pork top served atop a sublime southern-inspired cornbread. The balance between the vinegar-based BBQ sauce and the sweet bits of caramelized cornbread and the punchy pickled onions is revelatory. It’s pure, unadulterated brunch magic.
The wizards behind the kitchen at Hedge Row have amazed me once again with their imaginative and distinctive offering of brunch classics.