Mass Ave's Most Underrated Brunch Spot: Mesh

On most weekend mornings, I prefer to enjoy the charms of brunch at home in the comforts of my own kitchen, but this past Sunday, I opted to check out Indy’s expansive Mass Ave brunch scene. Waking up hungry and acutely hungover, I did not possess the patience to endure an hour wait for a table at hotspots like Milktooth or The Garden Table. Instead, I trekked to Mesh. Though a popular upscale dinner stop, the Cunningham-owned restaurant feels like a still-yet-to-be undiscovered brunch sanctuary.

While the space is not quite as modern as The Garden Table’s bright, open dining room and the food not as edgy as Milktooth’s award-winning brunch fare, Mesh is still innovative and affordable, and the space—particularly the back patio—is both stylish and inviting. I started my meal at the Cunningham-owned restaurant with the Asian-inspired Kung Pao Calamari, which is served with a delicious ginger-soy slaw. Though the calamari was slightly under seasoned, the flavors of the chili-garlic sauce were faultless. The calamari and the sauce, spicy but not overwhelmingly so, played nicely against the gingery slaw.

My friend ordered Mesh’s lamb hash. A blend of roasted potatoes, peppers, and onions with tender roasted lamb and a poached egg, the dish was a pleasant iteration of the classic breakfast dish. Still struggling with a pounding headache, I ordered the Breakfast Burger in hopes that this would be the magic elixir that would save me from my self-inflicted hangover blues. If a burger with bacon, hash browns, and a fried egg couldn’t save me, nothing would. Distinctly Bru Burger-esque (though not by coincidence or my surprise; Mesh is owned by the same owners as Bru), the patty was well-seasoned with a bold, beefy flavor. The bun was both soft and sturdy. The accompaniments—arugula, goat cheese, bacon, hash browns, a fried egg, and a sublime Dijon-maple gastrique—were appetizing and nicely varied in tastes and textures.

From the outdoor patio vibes and fried egg-topped dishes, Mesh delivers on all the flavors of your favorite Saturday brunch offering (including with your favorite midafternoon cocktails), without the crowd. Whether you’re hungover or simply looking for a solid brunch option on a weekend afternoon with friends, Mesh is—at least for now—an undiscovered gem in the downtown brunch scene.

Eats With Michael