Review: Indy's New Cunningham Restaurant, Rize, Impresses with its Inventive Take on Brunch
It’s often bland, tasteless, and underseasoned. The crust is regularly pale and soggy. The filling heavy and overcrowded, a thesis in the unpalatable art of everything-but-the-kitchen-sink home cookery. Chipping away at its standing as classic brunch fare, these common misfortunes have given quiche its bad rap. Few restaurants in Indy do quiche well, but none do them better than Cunningham Restaurant Group’s newcomer Rize.
The quiche at Rize, located on the ground floor of the new Ironworks Hotel on the city’s northside is a revelation. Dubbed an “Egg Tart” on the menu, the handmade crust is impossibly flaky and delicate. Cooked to a beautiful deep, golden brown, the shell is just sturdy enough to hold up the airy, custard interior. Topped with caramelized diced butternut squash, roasted mushrooms, and pickled red onion, the flavors are bold and balanced. The subtle sweetness of caramelized squash plays against the earthiness of the roasted mushrooms. The pickled onions provide a needed brightness to the dish. The Egg Tart, a star at Rize, is a stellar composition of flavors, textures, and balance.
The Egg Tart is not the only thing to be celebrated at Rize. Warm, yeasty cinnamon rolls the size of your head are one of the more indulgent options on the menu. (Pro Tip: Order one and split it between a table of four). Lighter farm-to-table fare dominates the menu. An entire section is dedicated to trendy “Toasts,” including an avocado option that’s garnished with just the right amount of fennel, radish, pickled onion, and pistachio to wow both your Instagram followers and your palate.
An all too large swath of brunch in Indianapolis involves the monotonous formulaic standby of eggs plus bacon multiplied by carbs equals brunch. Rize is a exclamatory (and welcome) departure of such prescribed methodologies. Rize is brunch fare as it should be: interesting and enjoyable. Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and with a single bite at Rize, it can also be the most satisfying.